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by Alice

machine embroidery hooping

May 2, 2011 in Embroidery hints and tips, video tutorials

Correct Machine embroidery hooping techniques

Correct hooping techniques could well be the most important aspect for producing a quality embroidery project.

When I bought my first embroidery machine I had no idea how to hoop correctly. Back then there was not a lot of information on the internet about machine embroidery hooping, I am one of those people who is not inclined to read a manual unless I run into problems, However I have just read through the manual for my very first embroidery machine and the instructions for hooping are vague to say the least.

Correct machine embroidery hooping can appear quite daunting to begin with.

but with practice you will become very quick at getting your item into the hoop and producing excellent embroidery.

Firstly try to judge how tight your hoop should be to accommodate your project; you will get better at this with practice. Now cut a piece of stabilizer larger than the Embroidery
frame, lay this over the lower hoop, now lay the item you want to Embroidery
over the stabilizer. In some cases you may need more than one layer of stabilizer. Ensure that the fabric is nice and straight and even but don’t stretch it. Place the upper hoop over the top and push it into place. This may require a little force. Don’t pull the fabric once it is in the hoop this can distort the fabric and change the placement of your design, it is also preferable to not tighten the screws once the project is in the hoop ad this cab pinch the fabric. If it is not correctly adjusted remove the project and start again.
Once the embroidery project is hooped you should be able to run your finger over the fabric without it moving or rippling, conversely if you have hooped it to tight it can “burn” the fabric, this cannot be repaired.

If you have not hooped correctly it can cause poor registration when stitching. You could end up with your design in one place and the outline somewhere else altogether. A good digitizer will ensure that the stitching order is appropriate so that the outlines end up where they should be.

bad machine embroidery hooping will cause a good embroidery designs to look a mess.

When embroidering onto a garment that requires the hoop and stabilizer to be placed inside the garment, like a tee-shirt or the leg of jeans, a good tip is to use some masking tape to secure the stablizer to the underside of the hoop. This will just pop off when you push the upper hoop into place but it will save you having to chase the stabilizer around inside the garment.

I will stress it again, correct machine embroidery hooping techniques is the most important part of creating fabulous embroidery.

I hope this helps your machine embroidery hooping technique, happy stitching.

machine embroidery hooping

Embroidery Allsorts

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by Alice

Embroidering with metallic thread

March 31, 2011 in Embroidery hints and tips

Metallic thread can be very frustrating to work with, if you are constantly having thread breaks it is very frustrating and can result in your project taking a lot longer to complete that you had planned. Here are a few ideas on how you can reduce the thread breaks when embroidering with metallic thread.

Make sure you are using good quality, well maintained metallic thread. If you are using cheap, old or dried out thread it will break more often, check that the thread is smooth by running through your fingers.

Always slow the machine down when you are using metallic thread. It will actually save you time because you won’t have to continuously deal with thread breaks.

Select an embroidery designs that is suitable for stitching in metallic thread. If the design was digitized for metallic thread the designer may have recommended a particular brand of thread.

Make sure you are using the correct size needle for the thread and that the needle is in good condition, if your metallic thread is a bit thicker than standard thread you may need to use a larger needle.

Because metallic thread kinks and loops more than regular thread this creates added tension as it passes through the thread guide, this can cause shredding and breaking. The use of a thread stand designed to smooth the thread can be helpful.

Heavy stiff tightly woven fabric and stabilizers are not recommended when using metallic thread as they can strip the metallic coating from the thread.

Check your machine tension; Make sure your thread tension is not to tight.

Make sure you have no rough edges or burs on needles and the needle plate.

Don’t use sticky backing or adhesives, the adhesive can build up on the needle and create drag which hinders smooth sewing

What causes machine embroidery thread to break

What Causes embroidery machine thread to break?
Here are a few reasons why you embroidery thread may be breaking, The first and most obvious one is your machine is not properly threaded try re-threading your machine ensuring the thread has gone through all of the guides and the tension properly. If this is not the problem then you might consider these other possibilities.
There may be burrs in the needle’s eye, on the thread guides, needle plate or the hook; Change the needle and try buffing the thread guides and needle plate. Buffing may alter  the timing, so it’s a good idea to change a defective hook.
Dry Hook; Since it gets dry faster, the hook must have regular lubrication. The hook assembly needs to be oiled every 4-8 hours of machine running time.
Needle too small; You should to change to a larger needle
An excessive amount of Adhesive spray; You need to be using exclusively Embroidery

designed adhesive sprays, do not over use them. An excessive amount of adhesive build-up on the needle can make them drag and break threads. If this is occurring you need to take a look at the way you use your adhesive spray
Improper timing; If your embroidery machine isn’t timed appropriately, it can cause many problems along with thread breaks. For example, broken needles, poor stitching or at times no stitching.
Old Thread; Thread can be brittle with age and long contact with light, air as well as heat. You need to keep your thread in a cool, dark place to extend shelf life.
Bruised spool; A bruised cone of thread can occur when the thread falls on the floor, causing the lower winding of thread to undo and catch as the thread spools off. You can remove the affected part of the thread or exchange the cone.
Machine speed; Some Embroidery designs increase the stress on thread. You ought to lower the machine speed as required

Lint build up; A lint build up around the tension discs, needle plate or bobbin cases could cause breakage. These areas ought to be cleaned regularly with air or maybe a brush.
Bent needle; This may happen after the needle hits a really hard object possibly Hoop, needle plate or the hook. If this occurs you have to replace the needle and look for burrs as well as the timing.
Improper tensions; If your tension is too tight, it can cause pulling, puckering and thread stress. If the thread is too loose it can cause the thread to stack up and loop. You have to alter the tensions to achieve a flat smooth look.
Using Tape for loose ends; Using tape can leave a residue and this can cause friction and thread breakage.

 

Embroidery Allsorts

Avatar of Alice

by Alice

How to hoop for machine embroidery

March 20, 2011 in Embroidery hints and tips

Correct hooping techniques could well be the most important aspect for producing a quality embroidery project. When I bought my first embroidery machine I had no idea how to hoop correctly. Back then there was not a lot of information on the internet. I am one of those people who is not inclined to read a manual unless I run into problems, However I have just read through the manual for my very first embroidery machine and the instructions for hooping are vague to say the least.
Correct hooping can appear quite daunting to begin with, but with practice you will become very quick at getting your item into the hoop and producing excellent embroidery.
Firstly try to judge how tight your hoop should be to accommodate your project; you will get better at this with practice. Now cut a piece of stabilizer larger than the embroidery frame, lay this over the lower hoop, now lay the item you want to embroidery over the stabilizer. In some cases you may need more than one layer of stabilizer. Ensure that the fabric is nice and straight and even but don’t stretch it. Place the upper hoop over the top and push it into place. this may require a little force. Don’t pull the fabric once it is in the hoop this can distort the fabric and change the placement of your design, it is also preferable to not tighten the screws once the project is in the hoop ad this cab pinch the fabric. If it is not correctly adjusted remove the project and start again.
Once the project is hooped you should be able to run your finger over the fabric without it moving or rippling, conversely if you have hooped it to tight it can “burn” the fabric, this cannot be repaired. If you have not hooped correctly it can cause poor registration when stitching. You could end up with your design in one place and the outline somewhere else altogether. A good digitizer will ensure that the stitching order is appropriate so that the outlines end up where they should be but if bad hooping will cause a good embroidery design to look a mess.
When embroidering onto a garment that requires the hoop and stabilizer to be placed inside the garment, like a tee-shirt or the leg of jeans, a good tip is to use some masking tape to secure the stablizer to the underside of the hoop. This will just pop off when you push the upper hoop into place but it will save you having to chase the stabilizer around inside the garment.

Embroidery Allsorts

Avatar of Alice

by Alice

Adjusting bobbin tension

March 14, 2011 in Embroidery hints and tips

Most machine embroiderers and users of sewing machine know how to alter the tension of the top thread in there machine. But sometimes it is actually the bobbin thread that requires some tweaking. Often if you are getting bobbin thread showing on the top of your designs it is because the bobbin thread is too lose, not because the top tension is too tight. Now this really is a question of balance but if you bobbin thread is coming out too fast you can alter the top tension all you like and you may find some improvement but as I said it is about balance.

In the picture below you will see that the bobbin case has two screws. the larger one on the left is the one that can be adjusted to change your bobbin tension.

You will likely need only small adjustments. I know that in Australia you can get a tool which will tell you if the tension is correct, but to be honest you will learn how it should feel when you pull the thread through, it just takes a little practice.

Turn the large screw clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen, you will probably only need about a quarter of a turn. Don’t overdo it.

Don’t forget to test stitch when you make your adjustment.

Happy stitching

Alice.

Here is the link to the Echidna where you can find the thread tension guide. I am not sure it is available outside of Australia Echidna Thread Tension guide

Embroidery Allsorts

Avatar of Alice

by Alice

Which stabilizer to use

March 13, 2011 in Embroidery hints and tips

There are many different kinds of stabilizers on the market and they serve many different purposes. I have never had any need for any others than the basics. So I will explain what they are and what they are used for.

You will see stabilizers also referred to as backing these terms are interchangeable, they mean the same thing so don’t be confused. The purpose of a stabilizer is to support the fabric while it is being embroidered and also through the life of the item. Good hooping and appropriate use of stabilizer is crucial for a good result with your embroidery


The first of the basic stabilizers I will talk about is Cutaway. Cutaway has a similar appearance to interfacing, and is soft to touch. This should be used on not stable fabric Such as knits and stretchy fabric. It is often a good idea to use two layers for things like tee-shirts. This will help prevent registration errors (stitches going in the wrong place) in the design.

The next one to discuss is tearaway, Tearaway also looks like interfacing but it is stiffer and has more of a paper feel to it. It can be used on stable fabrics. The tearaway can be almost completely removed for the back of the design. I like to use it on towels so that it can be removed from the design, it is not a good idea to use it on anything that is going to be worn close to the skin as the bits that don’t come off are  stiff and scratchy.


Now we come to washaway, washaway is water soluble and is fantastic to use for Free standing lace embroidery designs, It has an opaque and fibrous appearance and is soft to touch. If you have a well digitisedfree standing lace design you will be able to stitch it onto the washaway and it will then wash away under warm water, these can be very exciting projects to create with your embroidery machine.

 

Lastly I will talk about topping, this is not actually a stabilizer. Topping has a plastic appearance and feel it is water soluble.The purpose of it is to place on top of the item to be embroidered such as towels and anything with a pile. It stops the stitches from sinking into the pile of the fabric.


I have only these four in my stash and never have any use for anything else.  There are a lot of sticky backings on the market but I would not recommend frequent use as the adhesive can build up on your needles and cause problems. I occasionally use a light spray of temporary adhesive, but it is better if possible to hoop you stabilizer with the item to be embroidered.  Always use the smallest  hoop that the design will fit into.

Happy stitching.

Embroidery Allsorts